DIAMONDS 101 - A BRIEF LESSON The 4 C'sDiamonds are most typically valued using the 4 Cs: Carat, Color, Clarity and Cut. Carat The first C is the term used for the weight of diamonds...Carats. Ever wondered what a "point" means when discussing the weight of a diamond? Points are each 1/100th of a carat. A carat (sounds like carrot) is the equivalent of 1/5th of a gram. The carat measurement is metric so we further divide a carat into hundredths. Since more small diamonds are found than large diamonds, you can understand why larger stones are priced higher. ClarityThe second C is clarity ... the purity of the diamond. Very few are flawless. Diamonds are formed deep in the earth and are subject to tremendous heat and pressure which cause internal inclusions and external blemishes. Most diamonds have inclusions and key identifying characteristics. Diamonds are identified and graded based on these characteristics specific to their size, nature and location in/on the stone. Diamonds are graded by a skilled observer with 10X magnification using a binocular microscope or 10X loupe with optimum lighting conditions. The grading categories range from flawless to imperfect: Flawless Flawless diamonds must be free from internal inclusions and external flaws. Internal graining not visible face up and without discoloration or small naturals on the girdle (as long as they do not flatten the girdle) are acceptable in the flawless grade. V V S Very, Very Slightly Included Diamonds are just that. These diamonds usually require a microscope to grade as the inclusions are very, very small and difficult for a skilled observer to see. V S The Very Slightly Included grade is used for diamonds that have very small internal and external characteristics that are difficult to locate with 10X magnification and a skilled observer. S I Slightly Included diamonds have small to medium sized inclusions that are obvious when examined with 10K magnification but usually not visible to the naked eye. I 1, I 2, I 3 Imperfect diamonds have medium to large flaws that are usually obvious to the unaided eye. Durability may be an issue with the lower qualities. Color Surprisingly, diamonds occur in all colors of the rainbow, although most diamonds range from colorless to light yellow or light brown. We use the GIA grading scale for color. The top color is D which is colorless. D, E and F are colorless to the human eye. G, H, I and J are near colorless. K, L, and M are faint yellow, and the alphabet continues to Z .Then there are diamonds which have enough color to be called "fancy." In order to determine the specific color range of a diamond experts use a controlled lighting environment and a set of master color grading diamonds for comparison. There is very little difference from one color grade to the next. Because colorless diamonds are purer with less chemical impurities to absorb light, they are able to reflect and refract more white light, resulting in a brighter diamond. The more body color the diamond has the more light is absorbed. Cut Cut refers to the proportions and finish of a polished diamond. Most diamonds start as an octahedron rough, an eight sided natural crystal resembling two 4 sided pyramids joined at the base. Through expert, precision cutting and design, they end up as the sparkling brilliants so coveted the world over. Finish: The finish is the quality of polish and the symmetry of the diamond and all the facets. The optical attributes of a diamond are Brightness, Fire and Scintillation. Brightness: Brightness, also called brilliance is the effect of the internal and external reflection of white light. The proportions of the diamond play the main role in determining the brightness. Fire: Fire refers to the flashes of color resulting from the white light being dispersed into spectral colors. Scintillation: Scintillation refers to the areas of light and dark when viewing the top of the diamond. All these are factored with design and craftsmanship to assign a cut grade of Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor using the GIA Cut-grading System for round brilliant cut diamonds.
DIAMONDS 101 - A BRIEF LESSON
The 4 C's
Diamonds are most typically valued using the 4 Cs: Carat, Color, Clarity and Cut.
Carat
The first C is the term used for the weight of diamonds...Carats. Ever wondered what a "point" means when discussing the weight of a
diamond? Points are each 1/100th of a carat. A carat (sounds like carrot) is the equivalent of 1/5th of a gram. The carat measurement is metric
so we further divide a carat into hundredths. Since more small diamonds are found than large diamonds, you can understand why larger stones
are priced higher.
Clarity
The second C is clarity ... the purity of the diamond. Very few are flawless. Diamonds are formed deep in the earth and are subject to
tremendous heat and pressure which cause internal inclusions and external blemishes. Most diamonds have inclusions and key identifying
characteristics. Diamonds are identified and graded based on these characteristics specific to their size, nature and location in/on the stone.
Diamonds are graded by a skilled observer with 10X magnification using a binocular microscope or 10X loupe with optimum lighting conditions.
The grading categories range from flawless to imperfect:
Flawless
Flawless diamonds must be free from internal inclusions and external flaws. Internal graining not visible face up and without discoloration or
small naturals on the girdle (as long as they do not flatten the girdle) are acceptable in the flawless grade.
V V S
Very, Very Slightly Included Diamonds are just that. These diamonds usually require a microscope to grade as the inclusions are very, very
small and difficult for a skilled observer to see.
V S
The Very Slightly Included grade is used for diamonds that have very small internal and external characteristics that are difficult to locate with
10X magnification and a skilled observer.
S I
Slightly Included diamonds have small to medium sized inclusions that are obvious when examined with 10K magnification but usually not
visible to the naked eye.
I 1, I 2, I 3
Imperfect diamonds have medium to large flaws that are usually obvious to the unaided eye. Durability may be an issue with the lower qualities.
Color
Surprisingly, diamonds occur in all colors of the rainbow, although most diamonds range from colorless to light yellow or light brown. We use the
GIA grading scale for color. The top color is D which is colorless. D, E and F are colorless to the human eye. G, H, I and J are near colorless. K,
L, and M are faint yellow, and the alphabet continues to Z .Then there are diamonds which have enough color to be called "fancy." In order to
determine the specific color range of a diamond experts use a controlled lighting environment and a set of master color grading diamonds for
comparison. There is very little difference from one color grade to the next. Because colorless diamonds are purer with less chemical impurities
to absorb light, they are able to reflect and refract more white light, resulting in a brighter diamond. The more body color the diamond has the
more light is absorbed.
Cut
Cut refers to the proportions and finish of a polished diamond. Most diamonds start as an octahedron rough, an eight sided natural crystal
resembling two 4 sided pyramids joined at the base. Through expert, precision cutting and design, they end up as the sparkling brilliants so
coveted the world over.
Finish:
The finish is the quality of polish and the symmetry of the diamond and all the facets. The optical attributes of a diamond are Brightness, Fire
and Scintillation.
Brightness:
Brightness, also called brilliance is the effect of the internal and external reflection of white light. The proportions of the diamond play the main
role in determining the brightness.
Fire:
Fire refers to the flashes of color resulting from the white light being dispersed into spectral colors.
Scintillation:
Scintillation refers to the areas of light and dark when viewing the top of the diamond.
All these are factored with design and craftsmanship to assign a cut grade of Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor using the GIA Cut-
grading System for round brilliant cut diamonds.
